Sunday, May 26, 2013

Surfing Bali

First order of business when we got to Bali was get in the ocean and do some surfing! The water was warm and beautiful and the waves were huge! We went to Kuta beach and there were 10 foot waves breaking right on the beach....not great for surfing, so we talked to some people and decided to head out to Kuta reef. We paddled out to a boat that dropped us about half mile out at the reef. If you've surfed with me lately or'll know that I'm not really at the level of surfing 10 foot reef breaks. So when I say I paddled out, that is very literally what I did. Paddled out and watched the boys surf, was very relaxing and entertaining, I saw them both catch some incredible huge waves. The ocean was warm and there was some cloud cover so I didn't get fried and I got my own personal surf video! When we were done we just hopped on next boat and headed in. Remember that 10 foot beach break? Well the boat dropped us off right outside of that. I was with Justin and getting freaked out so he was telling me in a low spot to just paddle for your life....I literally felt like it was for my life, so at one point I looked back and this massive wave was coming at me so I bailed on my board and went under, right behind that huge wave was another huge wave, and at this point I'm totally freaking out so I started swimming back to the boat....figured I'd just ride around with them for the rest of the day. Daren was still out there and saw me freaking out so he had me hold on to his board and calm down. He told me to always just swim to the bottom and you won't even feel the wave coming over you, so I was calming down and practicing my swimming under waves and we had started to head in when a lifeguard jet ski headed out and picked is up. I felt pretty sheepish but mostly relieved. I don't remember the last time I was that scared. I renewed my healthy respect for the power of the sea today.

1 comment:

Tiffany and Brad said...

Indonesia is the current top of my bucket list! (Bali and Yogyakarta) When I heard you were doing SE Asia on Facebook, I was so curious about whether you would be going there but I never asked because it would be too painful if you weren't and too jealous if you were!!! I'm glad you loved it, though because that further cements it's place at the top of my must-go's. Love you Denise!